If you want to make a 3.3v reg, simply replace the LM7805 with a 3.3V regulator (such as a UA78M33), everything else in the circuit is the same, remember, though, that more voltage is being dissipated, so the heat sink on the module will get hotter. I needed to increase the hole size for the Reg because the legs are wider than the other through-hole components that I've used. The LM7805 is then soldered into it's holes. Note the orientation of the capacitors, these are polarized electrolytic capacitors with the negative sides facing each other on the board. As shown in Figure 1, there are three power supply in which two are of the same specification and one more is from the 12V 1A direct current power supply. The pins are on the copper side of the board because that's how you plug the circuit to the breadboard.Īfter the pin headers, I solder the resistor and LED followed by the 2 x 100nF capacitors. 100nF ceramic, one pin to pin 20 of the 328, the. 100nF ceramic, one pin to pin 7 of the 328, the other to GND. A 10uF electrolytic or whatever you fancy type of capacitor you have in your parts bin, one pin to the output of your 7805, the other to GND. ![]() The connection pin headers are pushed all the way through the board so that the plastic pin header housing doesn't have any pin protruding. 100uF electrolytic, + pin to 12V, - pin to GND. The input pin headers are inserted normally and are soldered in at the top left of the board. ![]() I've taken to using thick traces to improve the circuit etch results. ![]() Using whichever etching technique that you prefer, etch the circuit and test it.
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